I suppose no method is perfect, this works well for my needs, but did take some fine tuning. I guess the easiest way is to just pay a board house to make them…but where is the fun in that !
I think That’s great Thanks for taking the time to explain. Since I’ve seen Youtubers customising CD trays on the Epson R200 (and derivatives) in order to print small PCBs. They are constrained to the size of a CD however. As for me, I’m using the laser toner transfer method. I have had mixed results- even with the so called “proper” PCB transfer film. Lots of patience and trial and error is required!
Fascinating method. Why red / Magenta, and what does the bake do to the ink (other than the obvious that it somehow becomes etch resistant)? That’s an excellent looking etch- great job. Thanks for the video.
Hey, I use the standard Durabrite inks that come with the printer, others use MISPRO inks but I have found the standard ink works fine.
When I have had smudged prints it is usually the surface not being clean enough, or hot enough, try “scratching” the surface a little with a green kitchen scourer (lightly) and metho, then wipe the surface with a clean cloth and a little acetone, be careful not to touch the copper surface once it is clean.
I recently modified an epson stylus color 670 so that it would accept the copper board but no matter what I can’t make it to print properly, the ink just gets diffused.
I’ve tried heating / color changing / sanding / acetone and more but the ink just keeps “melting”..
I think my problem is the ink that this cartridges use..
What kind of ink are you uysing?
Is there any “permanent ink” (as in the permanent sharpies) available to prevent this?
I can’t link the URL here (Youtube won’t let me) but the techref . massmind site has what you need. There are a few pages on the site, you may have to dig a little.
Otherwise I have a build log on CNCZone but you will have to register (free) the thread got VERY long but most of what I did is on the first few pages.
I think nice video…!
i was sharing this with my friends when a chemist nerdy commented about the “…favorite acid”. Ferric Chloride and Cupric Chloride are not acids… those are salt!!!
I think The printer needs to use pigment based ink, not dye based, and you need to be able to modify the paper feed mechanism to accept a flat sheet of copper clad fibreglass, the Epson’s seem to be the easiest for this.
Comments»
Muy ingenioso, felicitaciones. Very clever, congratulations
I think Toner transfer method is better, faster and easier.
I think
the best homemade method
I ever seen in my live (5 stars)
No probs
I suppose no method is perfect, this works well for my needs, but did take some fine tuning. I guess the easiest way is to just pay a board house to make them…but where is the fun in that !
I think That’s great Thanks for taking the time to explain. Since I’ve seen Youtubers customising CD trays on the Epson R200 (and derivatives) in order to print small PCBs. They are constrained to the size of a CD however. As for me, I’m using the laser toner transfer method. I have had mixed results- even with the so called “proper” PCB transfer film. Lots of patience and trial and error is required!
Regards.
I think Hi, the magenta is supposed to be the best color to act as a resist, though on my setup it seems to be made up of all the color’s anyway.
The baking cures the ink, otherwise it just sits on the copper and remains wet, even hours after printing.
Cheers.
Fascinating method. Why red / Magenta, and what does the bake do to the ink (other than the obvious that it somehow becomes etch resistant)? That’s an excellent looking etch- great job. Thanks for the video.
Also the PCB has to be hot enough that you can barely pick it up without gloves.
Good Luck !
Hey, I use the standard Durabrite inks that come with the printer, others use MISPRO inks but I have found the standard ink works fine.
When I have had smudged prints it is usually the surface not being clean enough, or hot enough, try “scratching” the surface a little with a green kitchen scourer (lightly) and metho, then wipe the surface with a clean cloth and a little acetone, be careful not to touch the copper surface once it is clean.
Hi, I have a question for you.
I recently modified an epson stylus color 670 so that it would accept the copper board but no matter what I can’t make it to print properly, the ink just gets diffused.
I’ve tried heating / color changing / sanding / acetone and more but the ink just keeps “melting”..
I think my problem is the ink that this cartridges use..
What kind of ink are you uysing?
Is there any “permanent ink” (as in the permanent sharpies) available to prevent this?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks (I think
I think buenisimo metodo
I can’t link the URL here (Youtube won’t let me) but the techref . massmind site has what you need. There are a few pages on the site, you may have to dig a little.
Otherwise I have a build log on CNCZone but you will have to register (free) the thread got VERY long but most of what I did is on the first few pages.
Good Luck !
Tahnks,I will do that Do you remember any source in particular??
I think Best bet is to Google direct PCB printing and get ready for some serious reading
I think How do you hack the printer???
Ha, that is funny…nerdy but funny
I think nice video…!
i was sharing this with my friends when a chemist nerdy commented about the “…favorite acid”. Ferric Chloride and Cupric Chloride are not acids… those are salt!!!
I think The printer needs to use pigment based ink, not dye based, and you need to be able to modify the paper feed mechanism to accept a flat sheet of copper clad fibreglass, the Epson’s seem to be the easiest for this.
is this possible with any colour printer
Eagle layout editor…free version :>
I think what PCB software did you use?
I think Sorry, missed ur question…song is called Broken Days, it is a free music download from freeplaymusic {dot} com
:~]
Yup the original Durabrite inks, I was going to use MISPRO but didnt need to.